The Abacos with the Paylors and Molly Monk - June 5-10, 2023
The Skinny
Monday, June 5
Arrive Marsh Harbor - to Abaco Beach Resort & Marina
Get provisions and Moorings Leopard 46PC "Knotty Buck"orientation
Lunch at Abaco Beach Resort
Off to Great Guana Cay around 3pm
Anchor off Grabbers, dinghy in to Grabbers and Nippers
Dinner on board Knotty Buck
Tuesday, June 6
Depart in AM for Green Turtle Cay
Stop at Manjack Cay first for paddle board and walk on beach - sting rays
Head in to Green Turtle Cay to dock at Green Turtle Club Resort & Marina
Lunch at Bluff House - Tranquil Turtle Beach Bar
Golf cart tour of island - New Plymouth and stop at Pineapple Bar & Grill
Dinner at Green Turtle Club
Wednesday, June 7
Depart AM to head south to Little Harbor/Pete's Pub
Stop at Sandy Cay for snorkeling
Moor in Little Harbor
Abaco Club at Winding Bay picks us up and tour Abaco Club
Refreshements at Pete's Pub
Grill chicken on Knotty Buck for dinner
Thursday, June 8
Depart Little Harbor AM for Elbow Cay
Stop for snorkel at Fowl Cay then on to Tahiti Beach and drink at Thirsty Cuda
Anchor off of Firefly Resort
Dinghy in for dinner at Abaco Inn
Friday, June 9
Due to tide situation, instead of going into Hope Town Inn & Marina, we decide to dock at Sea Spray Resort & Marina (Dockmaster lives in Morehead City)
Golf cart tour of Elbow Cay/Hope Town
Ferry over to Hope Town Inn & Marina for lunch
Dinner at Firefly Sunset Resort
Saturday, June 10
Due to tide situation, pull out of Sea Spray at 5am
Anchor off of Man O War until heading back into Abaco Beach Resort & Marina
Off boat by 9am and on to airport
The Meat on the Bones
Monday, June 5
This is a 5 night Moorings charter boat company trip starting in Marsh Harbor, on Great Abaco island. A 46’ Leopard power catamaran, typical of the Moorings fleet, we opted to hire a captain for the virgin voyage (Captain Troy).. A four state room, two rooms in each pontoon, that are roughly queen sized beds with their own bath, the advantage of a catamaran is the extra width space making for a spacious salon and full and well equipped kitchen. We had ordered ahead for the majority of the provisioning, which helps get you on your way asap, but our order was never received; but since we had to wait for a passenger to arrive at 2pm, we had time to go do our own shopping which I would recommend over the pre-order as it is half the price and the Maxwell’s supermarket is very well equipped, though the taxi may eat up your savings. We acclimated, unpacked, got snorkel equipment and some SUP boards (all first come first serve) and had lunch at the very nice Abaco Beach Resort Marina restaurant, Abaco HQ for The Moorings.
Finally underway, our first stop was to Great Guana Cay, about 45 mins north where we anchored out. Famed for its two bars Grabbers and Nippers, the former on the sound side and the latter on the oceanside, they are known far and wide. One visit to each is enough as it can be thong packed and rocking - though on a Monday afternoon in June, both were pretty sleepy. Beautiful views at Nippers in particular. We opted to cook on board aft deck. (Notes: don’t forget paper products on your provision list: TP, paper towels, napkins, paper plates. Kitchen well equipped, but no dishwasher!)
Tuesday, June 6
Weather forecast all week is iffy and generally behaves as promised. Overcast often and occasional rain showers, we set off at 9:30am for the Green Turtle Club on Green Turtle Cay. This requires entering the ocean and it was a very choppy 30 minutes with large 4-8’ swells. Once past that, we make a stop at Manjack Cay to swim, paddle board, etc. Nice long beach there….day trippers from Green Turtle come in for a beachside lunch with Brendals Dive charters out of Green Turtle.
Arrival at Green Turtle Club seems a bit underwhelming at first, but don’t be deceived. Not luxurious by any means, but just highly attractive and alluring, esp inside. Full marina with showers, laundry, provisions, golf cart rentals plus the resort itself. The Club is old school with a number of attractive bungalows above the main building where dark wood paneled rooms highlight the common spaces. The prized bar the same coils and cozy feel that is comfortable and attractive, yet fun with a wallpaper of signed dollar bills. The restaurant has both inside and screened porch areas with a large outdoor patio as well. (But beware, GTC is KNOWN for its biting no-seeum’s. Bring bug spray. Also, book a golf cart as far in advance as possible.)
We hop a golf cart and set off to explore the island. First order of business: lunch so we head to another resort, The Bluffs, at their beachside lunch spot called The Tranquil Turtle (marginal) and then hit all the hot spots….Pineapple Bar and a tour of New Plymouth. All of the Abacos were virtually destroyed in the 2019 Cat 4-5 Dorian hurricane and they are still recovering. The most unfortunate is the historic town of New Plymouth which dates from the 18th century. Underneath the destruction and disrepair, you can tell it was such a quaint but bustling town - colorful, colonial architecture. Still, several restaurants and shops are there including McIntosh’s restaurant which came recommended by a non-native local who relocated there 2 years ago from Maine. (No wonder.) After touring, back to the club for a nap and pool swim
Drinks on the boat, then went to the bustling GTC bar with dinner on the screened porch after. Dinner was EXCELLENT.
Wednesday, June 7
Woke up to very threatening skies, but got a quick walk in to the Ocean Beach on the north end. We missed Coco Bay, which would have been interesting to see. Heavy rain caught us, but as happens in the Bahamas, it cleared and we had a departing pool swim.
Waiting out the rain showers with stronger winds to avoid rough seas, we departed at 10:30 heading south to Little Harbor Cay and Pete’s Pub for the night.
Snorkel pit stop at Sands Cay reef which is excellent snorkeling, but the overcast skies were very windy and the dingy ride was Gilligan Island material. But no current, so overall a fun if comical success. Onward to Pete’s Pub and sunshine!
Once moored in Little Harbor, we called The Abaco Club at Winding Bay for a visit which was quite a fun way to spend the afternoon touring the GORGEOUS grounds. Well planned and incredibly picturesque overlooking the heart shaped Winding Bay with a variety of homes built into the cliffs. Very cool. They picked us up and delivered us back to their sound side Abaco Yacht Club outpost beside Pete’s Pub. Went straight away to Pete’s to imbibe.
Delicious dinner on the boat though we were driven inside by mosquitos. Apparently, Green Turtle Cay doesn’t have the market cornered on biting bugs. But that led to a resounding game of 5 Crowns….and decent bedtime.
Thursday, June 8
Early morning rains once again stalled a few activities, but breakfast eaten, plan made, swim taken and 10:30 departure en route ultimately to Tahiti Beach by way of several snorkeling spots. Good snorkeling promised at Fowl Cay. Cloudy skies gave way to sun and calmer waters. Optimistic distance and timing as per usual by 28 yr old Cap’n Troy, but not a big deal as the snorkeling was fun and good in a large reef. New snorkeling tip was the blow up life jackets which were a painless safety boost.
Aimed to have lunch at Tahiti Beach at the Thirsty ‘Cuda houseboat, but lunch on our boat was a better and tastier option. Enough of the fried and same Bahamian cuisine. The goal was to be near our dinner locale at The Abaco Inn, so we dropped anchor just outside and dinghied over to Tahiti Beach to take in the sights and an afternoon beverage. Nipper-esque clientele on a pretty and low tide sand bar as the Almond Joy frozen drink went down just fine beside the watermelon shots other patrons were partaking. The best part of this field trip was meeting two cuties who happen to be locals, but go to UNC and NCSU. Tar Heel co-ed Stalla Higgs’ Dad, Chris Higgs, is the dockmaster at Seaspray, (which turned out to be key later) and many interconnections later, we learn they split time between Morehead City and Elbow Cay since her Mom is a Parrott from Kinston.
Back to the boat to move and drop anchor closer to the Firefly Inn/Abaco Inn just outside from the Abaco Inn harbor which had the makings for an interesting dinner dinghy ride. Stern swims and rationed showers as water was running low and then a most comical hair killer ride around the jetty into the harbor.
The Abaco Inn was much changed from our previous Abaco trip 15+ years ago, with significant development, but still a comfy, attractive small resort, open air bar and restaurant that borders newly rebuilt Seaspray Marina and development. Luckily, the rains held til we got there and after a lovely dinner, we boarded the trusty dinghy for the trip back in the dark by flashlight and beat the rains yet again. Left Center Right commanded our attention for the rest of the night.
Friday, June 9
Woke to threatening skies after a rocky night on anchor esp during an active early morning thunderstorm. Between that and low water, we altered our plan quickly from mooring in Hopetown for the day and then anchoring out from Firefly to going straight the Seaspray Marina for calm waters, water, and civilization. Enter NC connections. One problem though - no taxis on Elbow and all golf carts rented. (Rent ahead!). Enter Cap’n Troy and some inside phone calls and we snagged a cart, for the day anyway, and we are in business. Stella could take us to dinner later.
Off to explore the island, it is looking to be the worst day of the week by far with rain, storms and clouds all day. Actually counting our fortunes as each day has seemed to be the right day for the activity/conditions and this is true for today as well. Nice to be on land, esp for a cloudy day which makes it not so hot. We cart off to Firefly, which is very appealing, a bit reminisce small version of Round Hill in Jamaica, then cruised past the Calypso Cabin where we rented years ago and parked it in Hopetown. We walked the quaint and colorful “streets”/paths, duck into the Methodist church, gift stores and Ca’n Jacks Bahamian restaurant. We went to check out On Da Beach open air beach dive at Turtle Hill Resort, but were dived out and went straight to The Hopetown Inn and Marina under teh famed Hopetown lighthouse a for a very fun, more up market lunch. Once again, we happened to be in the right place at the right time to miss heavy downpours while we enjoyed a beverage with a floater and good food. (Tip: to get here, call the restaurant and they will send the harbor ferry which is the only way to get there if you don’t have a boat.) All watering establishments busy as weather wandering folks looking for entertainment.
Afternoon hangout before dinner at 8pm at Firefly Sunset Resort.
Saturday, June 10
Skipper Troy gets us out of Sea Spray early, around 5am before low tide. Anchor out near Man O' War Cay for breakfast, packing, quick swim. Depart about 730am to head back to Moorings base at Abaco Beach Resort & Marina. Refuel the boat and dock. Load up and say goodbye to Round 2 journey in the Abacos - 18 years from our previous trip!
Insider Notes
Boat Life: Keeping in mind its a rental and a personal boat would be tricked out differently, longing for: a washer and esp dryer; swifter and Dustbuster; more tea towels. Windex; softer mattresses; water desalination working; fishing poles? Pluses aside from the adventure and flexibility of it all: excellent kitchen (no dishwasher, but could have one, though not overly necessary.) lives bigger than it is, esp if good weather.
Boat Life: don't forget paper products on your provision list: TP, paper towels, napkins, paper plates... kitchen is well equipped but no dishwasher.
Golf carts: Book golf carts ahead of time if possible - hard to get them some places. You may have to pay for a few days even if you only need it for a day. Most places only do week or multi-day rentals.
Green Turtle Cay: check weather/seas for your plan to visit Green Turtle. You have to go in the ocean for a short distance and it can be too rough. Check on forecast if you plan to go to Green Turtle.
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