Taking a Peek at the Chesapeake
- wcmonk
- Aug 21, 2025
- 9 min read
Updated: Apr 30
Two Weeks on the Sea Monky
Around the Lower Chesapeake • August 8–20, 2025
Fourteen days cruising the ICW and Chesapeake — from Oriental, NC to the Northern Neck of Virginia, across to Cape Charles, and a race home ahead of Hurricane Erin. Prime rib in the middle of nowhere, Chiluly glass in Norfolk, a week at the Tides Inn, and the kind of trip that makes you want to turn right around and go back.
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Friday, August 8 — Provisioning Day
Scurried around to get to River Dunes/Oriental to set up shop and depart before the docks close and light dims. Underway around 4pm with a choppy run across the Neuse River before arriving Belhaven, NC around 6:30.
Belhaven Marina owner and dockmaster Kenny pushed his dinner reservation later to meet us. Prime starboard spot on the outer peninsula dock. Calm water and winds made for easy docking.
Dinner followed at Spoon River Restaurant. We debated docking and eating at River Forest Manor, under new management, but Belhaven Marina was more convenient.
Boater’s Review — Belhaven Marina: Pump out, fuel, laundry. Great location for town. Store, bar, bathrooms and showers are clean but older with their own rustic character. Showers on deck preferred.
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Saturday, August 9 — Belhaven to Coinjock
Departed Belhaven 8:50am en route to Coinjock, NC — escorted from behind by Flipper and his pal frolicking in unison in our wake right at the stern deck. Very cool.
Our beautiful and relatively calm ride took us through the Pungo River to the Alligator River Canal, across the Alligator River into the Albemarle Sound, through the North River, and ultimately the Coinjock ICW canal.
Arrived at the famous — or infamous — Coinjock Marina at 2:40pm. Quite literally in the middle of nowhere, with Elizabeth City the closest large city about 35 minutes away. We had cased everything there was to see by 3:15: the bathhouse, ship store, dock walk, the famed restaurant and bar. What else is there to do but drink at its knotty pine-paneled bar, full of personality and character — just like the sassy bartender.
The sleepy bar cranks up around 5:30 as patrons arrive from all over for the restaurant and its famous prime rib, which you must pre-order. No seating reservations taken, but you have to reserve the prime rib. An hour wait at 6:30 — worth it. Everything else is slightly home-cooking style but still good. Quite the experience, including our young waitress with the well-lived smile.
Boater’s Tip — Coinjock Marina: Fuel, pump out, clean and basic showers. Classic rest-stop feel. Reserve the prime rib before you arrive.
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Sunday, August 10 — Coinjock to Norfolk
Departed Coinjock at 9:15am bound for Norfolk, Virginia. A trickier cruise with several bridges to time and a lock as well. Gorgeous scenery along the North Landing River — bald eagles, osprey, tall uniform grasses lining the shore, driftwood-like stumps and wind-beaten trees for a truly serene environment.
Arriving the North Landing Bridge right on the hour at 10:55am, then a few more miles to the Centerville on-demand bridge, and then the famed Great Bridge lock. The lockmaster is very helpful, looping lines to hold you while the lock fills and empties. Smooth and satisfying once you’ve experienced it.
After the lock and into the Elizabeth River, the terrain shifts dramatically as it becomes industrial approaching Norfolk. Held up at the Norfolk Southern #7 bridge for an Amtrak train. Then into the Norfolk Harbor — something to behold, surrounded by private contractor shipyards with massive naval ships under repair, floating naval dorms, and the Norfolk skyline all right together. Fascinating and worth seeing.
We chose Waterside Marina to be in the heart of town. We walked the Elizabeth River Walk around the harbor, down historic Freemason Street, and visited the Naval Station Norfolk area and the Battleship Wisconsin — well worth the visit.
Dinner was a highlight: friends had told us about the Glass Light Hotel, owned by Dollar Tree family Doug Perry. Big patrons of the visual arts, their gallery of primarily glass art is connected to the lovely boutique hotel and is outstanding. The three Dale Chihuly pieces were actually the most underwhelming works in the collection. Definitely go see it — and have dinner too. It was outstanding.
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Monday, August 11 — Norfolk to Irvington
Among giants as we pulled out at 9am, surrounded by massive freighters and tugs. Passed the enormous Norfolk Naval Station with war ships and aircraft carriers including the USS George H.W. Bush — about $50 billion worth of ships. Calm waters in the Chesapeake and decent temperatures for the four-hour-plus trip.
Arrived The Tides Inn around 1:30pm. Nestled in a cove of Carter’s Creek off the Rappahannock River, it is a horizontal building conglomeration that looks unassuming for its long history in the area. The dock hands are all friendly and helpful, tending to the numerous water activities for hotel guests. The dock fee may be slightly higher than other marinas, but it comes with access to all hotel amenities and activities.
Settling in for a week’s stay, we cleaned the boat, got familiar with the campus, and met some high school friends at the classic pool. Afterwards, we got takeout from the Fish Hawk, the Inn’s casual poolside restaurant, and were picked up by boat to have dinner at the Szyperskis’ gorgeous home on the point off the creek’s mouth in Weems. Overlooking the River and Bridge. Pretty special.
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Tuesday, August 12 — Settling Into Irvington
Regroup day: fitness room, laundry, and touring Irvington by bike to have lunch at The Local — very good sandwiches and breakfast items. Met friends Sally Stillwell and family poolside. Afterwards, a jaunt to Kilmarnock for a Walmart run — which earned a nice dinner reward in the bar at the Inn’s Salt and Meadow restaurant.
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Wednesday, August 13 — Northern Neck & Urbanna
Hopped in the car to tour the Northern Neck Peninsula. Checked out White Stone and crossed the old two-lane bridge spanning the wide Rappahannock River to see Christ Church School, which has re-imagined itself as a sports school with a strong sailing program. Pretty old red brick campus perched high above the river overlooking its sailing facilities.
Back and set sail for Urbanna — another cute little hamlet on the water. A bit larger than Irvington, not quite as appealing, but definitely worth the trip. Lunch was at Something Different Restaurant.
Back into rain and a thorough boat cleaning before a rinse-and-repeat dinner at Salt and Meadow at the Inn. Just too good and cozy to go somewhere else.
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Thursday, August 14 — Irvington Life
Biked in for breakfast at The Local and checked out Livi’s Market (the Exxon station). Don’t be fooled — it does sell gas, but inside it is all gourmet: great gifts, food, and wine selection.
After lunch, pickleball with the Stillwells, a pool dip, and then a Food Lion run to provision for the weekend ahead. Dinner at Dredge in Irvington — a focus on oysters, very casual. The gumbo and oysters were excellent. Old Salts were very salty (as promised), but the Steamboats were sweet and big.
Back to the boat to find a broken water line saturating the port bow bedroom. Ugh. Total PITA. Life of a boat. Bailed and hung things to dry.
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Friday, August 15 — The Weekend Begins
Emergency circumvented and the weekend is back on. The Grays arrived late morning, lunch at the Fish Hawk poolside, and off to play 9 holes at the Inn’s course, Golden Eagle Golf Course. Pretty but a bit run down — still fun.
Stopped by the Stillwells’ home in Lancaster to return their car. Back to swim and clean up for a cocktail cruise with guests B and Catherine Hathaway and Emily Irby Grimes on a gorgeous evening, followed by a very fun dinner at Salt and Meadow.
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Saturday, August 16 — Mirroir & 77 Social
Leisurely breakfast on the aft deck, group pickleball, and an attempt at the campus par 3. Then friends Mary Kendall and George White arrived in their Grand Banks trawler and we were all off by Sea Monky to Mirroir Oyster Bar for a 1pm reservation. A delightful outdoor spot across the river and under the bridge. Most tables shaded, oysters delicious, beer cold. Highly recommended.
Returned for a pool swim, drinks on the Whitecaps, and dinner in Irvington at 77 Social. Great vibe, but food — while very good — is very casual and small-plates oriented. Order more than you think you need.
Back to Salt and Meadow to celebrate four August birthdays with their yummy peach crisp atop the Sea Monky. Very fun!
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Sunday, August 17 — Cape Charles
Another leisurely breakfast spread on the aft deck before the Lesemanns departed. We went by dinghy to see the Hathaways at their newly renovated house on Moran Creek off the Corrotoman River.
Then we departed the Northern Neck to cross the Chesapeake to Cape Charles, Virginia to see longtime friends John and Monika Bridgforth. Docked at the Cape Charles Town Docks, just across from Mason Street, the heart of town.
The Bridgforths boarded and we cruised the Chesapeake, getting the lay and history of the area. Back to clean up, tour the town, and head to their pretty home on King’s Creek at Oyster Farm at King’s Creek.
The town of Cape Charles was established in 1884 by the New York-Pennsylvania Railroad as a railroad ferry terminus to span to the Norfolk area. It boomed until post-WWII. Today it is recovering from 2008 and becoming a new second-home and retiree destination — historical, charming, with gorgeous Victorian homes, though still very rural and agricultural at its core.
Dinner at home with John and Monika was a lesson in local history — and delicious crab cakes, of course.
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Monday, August 18 — Change of Plans: Back to Norfolk
The plan was to head up to St. Michaels and the Maryland area, but Hurricane Erin had other ideas. We regrouped, toured greater Cape Charles — the new developments and Bay Creek Country Club, John’s family home, and lunch at the E&O Kitchen & Bar — before embarking to Norfolk to race Erin home.
Arrived Norfolk around 5pm, had friends Evans McMillion and Chris Burgess over before heading to the cozy and delicious Luce Italian Restaurant. Tiny spot — get a reservation if possible.
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Tuesday, August 19 — Outrunning Erin
Here comes Hurricane Erin, and we are going to outrun her. Early departure for an uneventful trip back to Belhaven, docking at River Forest Manor this time. A quick storm blew up just as we were docking — made it difficult — then was gone.
Dinner that night at River Forest Manor was a bit of a swing and a miss. Trying hard to be an elevated experience but landing as a mish-mash of entrées and décor. Go to Spoon River if possible.
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Wednesday, August 20 — Happy Birthday, Captain!
A fantastic birthday voyage and home just before Erin arrived the next night. We will be going back to the Chesapeake.
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Quick Reference — Marinas, Restaurants & Stops
MARINAS & DOCKS
Belhaven Marina, Belhaven NC — fuel, pump out, laundry; good town access
Coinjock Marina, Coinjock NC — fuel, pump out; famous prime rib (must pre-order)
Waterside Marina, Norfolk VA — heart of town; very well located
The Tides Inn Marina, Irvington VA — dock fee includes all resort amenities and activities
Cape Charles Town Docks — convenient to Mason Street town center
River Forest Manor, Belhaven NC — alternative to Belhaven Marina; restaurant a miss
RESTAURANTS
Spoon River Restaurant, Belhaven NC — preferred Belhaven dinner; go here over River Forest Manor
Coinjock Marina Restaurant — famous prime rib; pre-order required; arrive hungry and patient
Glass Light Hotel & Gallery, Norfolk VA — outstanding glass art collection and excellent dinner; do not miss
Luce Italian Restaurant, Norfolk VA — cozy and delicious; tiny, get reservations
Fish Hawk, Irvington VA — casual poolside restaurant at the Tides Inn
Salt and Meadow, Irvington VA — the Inn’s signature restaurant; excellent and cozy; go repeatedly
The Local, Irvington VA — great sandwiches and breakfast; good bike-in option
Dredge, Irvington VA — oyster-focused; casual; excellent gumbo and Steamboat oysters
Mirroir Oyster Bar, VA — delightful outdoor spot across the river; shaded; delicious oysters
77 Social, Irvington VA — great vibe; small plates; order more than you think
Something Different, Urbanna VA — good lunch stop in Urbanna
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Battleship Wisconsin, Norfolk VA — well worth the visit
Glass Light Hotel Gallery, Norfolk VA — world-class glass art collection; free to explore
The Tides Inn, Irvington VA — pool, water sports, bikes, pickleball, golf; excellent base for a week
Golden Eagle Golf Course, Irvington VA — scenic but a bit run down; still fun
Livi’s Market, Irvington VA — gourmet market disguised as a gas station; great wine and gifts
Christ Church School, Urbanna VA — beautiful campus above the Rappahannock; strong sailing program
Cape Charles, VA — charming Victorian town; great Victorian architecture; great base to explore the Eastern Shore
Bay Creek Country Club, Cape Charles VA — new development and marina worth seeing
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