London with the Banwells - March 31, 2023 - April 3, 2023
The Skinny
Thursday, March 30
Heathrow Express to Paddington to Eaton Terrace
Lunch Wulf and Lamb
Walk Chelsea, South Ken, Kensington High St, Holland Park
Souls Grown Deep Like the Rivers Art Exhibit - Royal Academy
Pub
Dinner at Banwells
Friday, March 31
Harvey Nichols, Harrods
Lunch at 45 Jermyn St
Shop
Dinner at Opso Greek restaurant in Marylebone - Jim Yardley joined
Saturday, April 1
Car to coast to hike 14 mile Seven Sisters Coastal Trail
From Seaford to Eastbourne
Bistro Pierre for a pint and chips in Eastbourne
Dinner at Evelyn's Table in Soho (incredible!) - 12 seat counter restaurant
Sunday, April 2
Palm Sunday - St. Martins-in-the-Fields
Lunch at Banwells
Marylebone - High Street and Regents Park
On to Hamstead to home of Jim & Theo Yardley
Walk through Hamstead Heath - Parliament Hill
Pub
Dinner Locanda Locatelli - Portman Square
Monday, April 3
Taxi to LHR 7am!
The Meat on the Bones
Thursday, March 30
As coached, we took the Heathrow Express to Paddington since traffic coming into London wold be horrid and then caught a taxi to 33 Eaton Terrace, home of The Banwell’s. Excellent advice. Arrived at 9am from LHR for a quick catch up, breakfast and then up the stairs (and stairs) for 2 hrs of hard sleep.
Off to Pavillion Street for lunch at Ottolenghi Chelsea, but alas a 40 minute wait sent us up the street to land at Wulf and Lamb vegan restaurant which was excellent. Then off for a walk down memory lane through our old stomping grounds of Chelsea, South Ken (Thomas London Day School), Kensington High Street, and Holland Park (sand pit) to end up at 67 Oakwood Ct. Through Holland Park (Square School) and Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park before catching a cab to the Royal Academy to see the “Souls Grown Deep Like the Rivers” exhibit of American Black Southern Artists. Interesting and not long, it is good but not great.
A pub seemed to be in order, so we headed just down Eaton Terrace to The Duke of Wellington for a pint…or two. Guinness was very tasty when served cold. And then…dinner at home as Ian took to the BBQ with divine lamb chops, roasted potatoes, and sautéed spinach from Elizabeth Street’s Barley and Rye. Perfect evening.
Friday, March 31
After a relaxed morning, we hit nearby Harvey Nichols and Harrods before joining our hosts for lunch at 45 Jermyn St. A very civil and slightly business type lunch spot, we headed back to take in a few more shops despite ick weather. Zara and similar shops on the King’s Rd and then reversed to browse the shops on Elizabeth St.
Dinner at Opso Greek restaurant in Marylebone was excellent. Bustling, hip and smallish, the small plates and large plates are meant to be shared and everything is outstanding even for the wary eater. We were lucky enough to have Jim Yardley in town and he joined us. Great evening.
Saturday, April 1
This is the day we have all been waiting for….Hiking the 14 mile Seven Sisters Coastal Trail from Seaford to Eastbourne in the South Downs National Park. Most might train to Seaford and then take the bus to the Park Welcome Center, (thus saving 4 miles) but we chose to have a driver drop us at Seaford for the entire walk and be picked up on the other side in Eastbourne. It’s a 2 hr drive from London town.
Similar to the Cliffs of Dover, the Seven Sisters are said to be a more beautiful version and it was spectacular. The white chalk cliffs are breathtaking, the green carpet of grass all along the cliffs, the gray ocean views and the rolling sheep pasture opposite views are breathtaking and quintessential England. The weather held with the dark clouds adding to the drama of the walk. There are pubs along the way, but a picnic was the better call for us. Upon trail completion, continue walking into town to the ferris wheel area for the final reward of the day at beachside Bistro Pierre for celebratory pints and chips. Whadda day!
BUT, it isn’t over yet with another incredible experience inside and counter side for dinner at Evelyn’s Table in Soho. In the basement below a hopping pub and wine bar about it, Evelyn’s Table is a 12 seat counter with 3 chefs behind preparing
at least 7 courses in a pinnacle of food creativity and delicacies. Having just earned a Michelin star, reservations are difficult to come by, esp with only one reservation for 4 people. Conversation is not only not necessary, it almost interferes with the show of the chefs and the entertainment of the descriptions and host. It is a top 5 lifetime dining experience for sure.
Sunday, April 2
Palm Sunday, so we chose to attend St Martins-in-the-Fields for our service and boy, it was the right choice! A full house complete with a West End quality production of The Passion accentuated by songs from Godspell. Very moving. Interesting to compare our Episcopal ways with the Anglican ways which were mostly interchangeable except for the Lord’s Prayer. In such a diverse congregation, everyone was invited to say their own version aloud. And no tincture dipping…only sipping from the Chalice.
We walked back to Eaton Terrace by way of the Mall with its zillions of blooming daffodils and had a nice soup, salad and sammy lunch at home before heading over to Marylebone to check out the latest hip neighborhood high street and on into Regent’s Park for a walk about.
Onward to Hampstead to the home of Jim and Theo Yardley who then took us through their neck of London, most specifically, a walk through Hampstead Heath. A much more natural park than perhaps Hyde or Holland Park, the Heath has swimming ponds and incredible views from atop Parliament Hill. But of course, such splendor requires a pint afterwards in the local pub. Or two….which meant hustling home to change for dinner together at Locanda Locatelli Italian restaurant in Mayfair at Portman Sq. A lovely upscale Italian spot, the best part aside from yum food was the calm and low decibel atmosphere. Perfect way to both spend a Sunday evening and the last night of a most excellent time with most excellent and special friends.
Monday, April 3
Taxied to LHR (against rush hr traffic at 7am). Spot on 100%.
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