Olbia. Tavolara Island. Porto Rotondo. Porto Cuervo. Bonafacio. Maddelana Island. Cala di Volpe. Poltu Quatu.
The Skinny
Sunday, 9/1
Olbia, Sardinia for boarding the Sea BlueZ yacht Benetti 120’ motor yacht
Anchor by Tavolara Island, Costa Smeralda
Monday, 9/2
Treked nature trail on Tavolara Island
Anchor near Porto Rotondo
Lunch at Nikki Beach
Dinner inside aboard
Tuesday, 9/3
Tender ride into Porto Rotondo
Lunch aboard and tendering over to a small cove for swimming and snorkeling.
Explore Porto Cervo
Back to the boat for dinner
Wednesday, 9/4
Left by 9 am to head to Bonafacio, Corsica for “getting lost” in the old town, hiking, shopping and dining.
Dinner is out in port at La Caravelle
Thursday, 9/5
To the famed Maddelenas National Park for the day at Isola Maddalena and Caprera.
Tendered to La Maddelena town for exploring and another shop fest
Boat for lunch and sea toys of paddle boards, peddle board and Sea Bobs.
Cocktail sunset tender cruise and 60th birthday party dinner
Friday, 9/5
Anchor up early and over to Isola di Santa Maria in the Madelenas, for a morning of weaving in and out of the rock formations via tender for swimming and snorkeling.
Lunch onshore at La Casita, a small inn hidden amongst the rocks and bush on the otherwise deserted island.
Park regulations require all boats and visitors to depart the area by 5pm daily, so anchor up and to near Capo Ferro to moor for the evening.
Sundowner at Phi Beach bar, nightclub, restaurant. Dinner on Boat.
Saturday, 9/7
Back to Caprera for trek and swim toys.
Anchor up and BlueZy tender went ahead to Polua Qutua marina to dock for the night
Grand finale was sundowner at Cala di Volpe Hotel
Back for final boat dinner
Sunday, 9/8
Lunchtime at Matt’s in a local Marina di Portisco and on to Olbia.
Stayed at Milan Malpenza Airport Sheraton. Very convenient and suitable.
The Meat on the BoneZ
Sunday, 9/1
And so it begins. Cruising the Med in Sardegna and Corsica
Coming in from all directions, the 60+ year olds meet in Olbia, Sardinia to board the Sea BlueZ yacht. Beautiful seafood lunch once the Glovers finish shopping after lost luggage strands them and off we go to anchor by Tavolara Island, the famed large table rock that stands tall off the Costa Smeralda. A swim, some snorkeling and a tender cocktail cruise before another gorgeous dinner of baked chicken hens, snow peas, caprese, and roasted potato wedges.. And off to bed for a chilly, dark slumber.
Daily Funnies: Italian Stallion and Euro Boy’s outfits; Looney Tunes Ferry; It is Forbidden; lost bag arrival #1 tears of joy;
Monday, 9/2
The plan to hike Tavolara post breakfast is thwarted a bit by the fact that one must be led by a guide and the guide left at 8:30. Noted. But we pivoted and trekked a nice nature trail around the peninsula to end up in a private cove for a swim. Back to the boat for a short journey to drop anchor at XXX and visit the famed Nikki Beach for 1:30 lunch reservations. And what a lunch that became.
Truly a beach club, it has about 20 sets of lounge chaises and a thatched and concrete smallish restaurant with about 15 tables max. A delicious menu of 2Kg mozzarella du bufala, sliders, Caesar salad, chicken satay, bruschetta pizza, gives way to flowing alcohol which apparently becomes the whole point. Similar to La GrisXXX on the Côte d’Azur, the restaurant essentially turns into a night club complete with DJ and the whole restaurant dancing the afternoon away. Quite the experience and quite fun.
Plans to have a ”sundowner” at Cala di Volpe famed hotel were nixed by rain which was just as well. Name that Tune ensued and dinner inside at the dining table of lobster, roasted potatoes, fingerling potatoes and slaw.
Daily Funnies and quintessentials: LOLOLOLOLOjlena; apple in my mouth 9pm birthday party at the Grand Hotel; darty tequila shots; 3 for 1 gold lame coverups;
Tuesday, 9/3
Tender ride into Porto Rotondo to have a look around. Small, but very attractive smallish village built up into the hill and around the small harbor. Very fun shopping that is priced well. Beautiful weather after the rains.
Gorgeous lunch of a whole cooked fish, Greek salad, and rose always before tendering over to a small cove for some swimming and snorkeling. A busy spot of others with the same idea, but we are still lucky as the summer crowds have dropped by half this week and our weather is quite good squeezed in between summer crowds and Mistral wind season.
Then late afternoon was visiting the famed Porto Cervo, the purpose built town by the Aga Kahn back in the mid 50’s and point central to the Costa Smeralda glam life of the rich and famous. Adobe like town built into the rocks designed to look like the rocks themselves. Luxury brands a la Rodeo Drive and Via Condotti all in one, but other shops are nestled amongst the designer labels for fun shopping as well. Back to the boat for dinner of tenderloin, haricot verte, and salad on the aft deck followed by raucous Pig dice game and Left Center Right. The Italian Stallion outfits continue to be a highlight. But alas, so did the Lost luggage #2 appearance.
Daily funnies and memories: Michael Jordan t-shirt; tini Tinis; Negronis vs tequila;
Wednesday, 9/4
Left by 9 am to head to Bonafacio, Corsica for the full experience for “getting lost” in the old town, hiking, shopping and dining. We were docking at the port for the evening, so just entering the harbor and observing the docking was quite amazing in and of itself. Bit unnerving to have tourists taking o photos of us coming in. The town itself is def not purpose built, but medieval feeling high atop the white rock cliffs. The entire place is simply stunning.
So we did all that: got lost in the twisty, rock paved old village before walking along the cliff almost to the end with jaw dropping 360 non-stop views of the XXX Sea, cliffs and azure water below. Back to town for some serious shopping as prices and variety of trinkets, most especially coral, was abundant.
Hopes for a swim around the harbor were dashed as some of the famed Mistral winds were whipping up making tender trips not possible. Allora. Hot tub was not a bad 2nd choice.
Dinner is out tonight in port at La Caravelle which is open air and harborside. Super attractive framed with high ceilings, curtains, basket light fixtures, specializing of course in fresh seafood. Scorpion fish, John Dory were on the docket. Spectacular day and evening.
Daily funnies: Late night shopping;
Thursday, 9/5
To the famed Maddelenas National Park for the day. The winds continued driving us into a larger cove to moor for the evening and dodge the winds. We tendered into La Maddelena town for exploring and another shop fest. Cheap and cheerful accessories were all consuming, but the REAL highlight was pizza al taliga and ice cream all before lunch.
Back to the boat for a lunch of grilled mozzarella and prosciutto sandwiches as well as caprese sandwiches. And salad. And Rose. As per.
The afternoon brought out the sea toys of paddle boards, peddle board and the Bond-like Sea Bobs. A fun afternoon in the water.
A cocktail tender cruise doubletimed also as a ploy for Lola and Jlenea to set up for the 60th birthday party. Curated by Charlotte with support for the gals, and executed by the crew, it was QUITE the evening. Flaming grill on the stern manned by Captain Robert and 1st Mate James set the tone with gorgeous beef tomahawks for dinner, flowing beverages and loads of presents for the birthday girl and boy. Appropriately clad in birthday decor, dancing could only follow.
Daily funnies and quintessentials:
Friday, 9/5
Anchor up early and over to Isola di Santa Maria, still in the Madelenas, for a morning of weaving in and out of the rock formations via tender for swimming and snorkeling. This is a popular spot and while we’re the 2nd and only large boat there, boats continually arrived by the scores to drop anchor, sun and swim.
But we escaped the crowds with lunch onshore at La Casita, a small inn hidden amongst the deserted rocks and bush with an exquisite set up for meals perched on the boulders overlooking the water. A true Italian lunch not ordered but presented in courses of seafood. It was over the top unique and gorgeous, (but not for the faint of heart on the pocketbook as the wine list was from Harris Teeter but priced like the Ritz Carlton.) It was quite unforgettable.
The Park regulations require all boats and visitors to depart the area by 5pm daily, so after lunch, anchor up and naps followed as we headed into XXX to moor for the evening.
But alas, running with the beautiful people isn’t over yet as we head to Phi Beach bar, nightclub, restaurant, what is it exactly? Very cool carved into the large gorgeous smooth boulders, its a scene is what it is. Attracting all sorts, but esp the young set, we opted again the 750 Euro table and got our 30 Euro ticket and one drink sitting on the rocks with the bouncers at every turn. Gorgeous night perfect for people watching and Negronis.
Shrimp pasta was the dinner plan for a quieter night post major lunch fest and sundowner clubbing….
Daily funnies and quintessentials: Magellan
Saturday, 9/7
Another gorgeous day so we head back to the Maddelenas for another day of fun in the sun. This time we head back to Capera, the island next to La Madelenna which we tried to explore a previous day, but this time we had the time to do the trek we were interested in the previous visit. We opted for a coast line trek vs attempting to see Garabaldi’s house and museum hike. A bit of a late start had some toasty temps and part of the hike along the road which was busy with Saturday beach goers, but it was still fun to see the various beaches before getting on the more deserted coastal walk and gorgeous rock formations walking through the interior path.
Dripping from sweat, we enjoyed swims off the stern despite choppy seas and significant currents before another amazing whole Sea Bass covered and cooked in salt for seasoning. Afterwards, paddle boarding was challenging, but Sea Bobs were loads of fun. Anchor up and BlueZy tender went ahead to Polua Qutua marina for the night at dock and some final shopping. A tiny hamlet, the potential for some more shopping was nil as the entire village had been bought up by Marriott and everything was closing in prep for its new chapter.
But the grand finale was yet to come as our sundowner at Cala di Volpe finally came to fruition for quite the grand finale. Winds again prevented the tender dropping us off, so a 15 minute car service whisked us away for our final evening. Beautiful hotel and grounds around a small bay, the original part was the villa of the Aga Kahn’s Prince son built in the mid 60’s and the addition built in the 70’s. Understated, yet still grand, it is a charming mix of villa style Italian architecture situated perfectly down the hilly rocks but groomed with grassy areas, a large pool and small beach. The staff was truly welcoming and it is a must for anyone.
Back for dinner of ribeyes and tuna steaks over a recap rehash of highs, lows and buffalos stories from everyone. It was a specialty day and night….like every other day.
Highs, lows and buffalos:
Sunday, 9/8
Packing strategies, one more poached egg breakfast, bill figuring, weather watching, dragging a bit, hugs and promises of another trip. Minus the Wickhams who left early, the gang disembarked at 11:30 en route to Olivia for lunch. Chat of passing time at Cala di Volpe gave way to stopping in a local marina XXX for a lunch waterside at Matt’s. Pizza was the order of the day despite efforts for a more grand lunch by our enthusiastic young waiter.
E poi, ciao. Ci vediamo a presto!
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