June 2018
French Open, Butterfield & Robinson Bike Trip in Burgundy
Friday, June 1, 2018
All systems pret, landing CDG a huit heures and then…traffic. Would a train have been faster into the city? J'en sais pas, but alors, the Bordens and Monks arrived at the Hotel d'Aubusson on Rue Dauphine (near St. Germain de Pres) in the Left Bank 6th Ard. to the Parisian natives Pecheleses and Whichards on their way (minus Brian) to Roland Garros. A quick clean up in borrowed rooms and then subwaying from Odeon stop to Autiellier (?) and walked with the throngs to Roland Garros. A french version of Forest Hills (and efficiency to match the time period of Forest Hills,) we finally arrived inside where #2 seed 21 year old German Alexander Zverev beat Damir Dzumhur of Bosnia on main Philippe Chatrier Court in a 5 set thriller. Also saw Caroline Wozniacki smush Frenchwoman Pauline Parmentier 0,3. Fun to walk in the smaller courts and see Americans Steve Johnson and Jack Sock win in doubles up close and personal. Prefect day for tennis that was overcast and cool, but little rain. Big thrill when we passed Venus and Serena being ushered into the locker room right past us after they won their doubles match. Serena sporting her cat suit look.
More traffic to get to the Gare d'Lyon for the high speed train to Dijon. (French blow out #1: informed not so nicely by a French passenger that people do not talk on French trains. Zut Alors…) Standing strong overall though with occasional sinking spells, (the long days helped since it doesn’t get dark until at least 10pm,) we walked from the Dijon train station to the Grande Hotel de Dijon to meet Butterfield and Robinson in the morning. A note from Damien and little mustards prezzies greeted us with out B&R stash bags for the van. A light supper and Jordy gave a lesson in martinis that did not include pear vodka. A 10 of a day.
Saturday, June 2, 2018 - Day 1 - 35 miles
First up…34 miles through the Burgundy countryside. A taxi took us to meet our guide Damien at a hotel in Nuits St. Georges and with our nifty bike packs and personal GPS tablets, we are off through the Cote D'or region on the Route de Grand Cru. Crystal blue skies and vineyards everywhere. After our warm-up, we head to the B&R “Secret Spot” at Moulin XXX (Gristmill) for a country home by a stream where Mapie and Franck await with a GORGEOUS “picnic” of pate, chicken, green beans, salad and the addictive and omnipresent dijon vinaigrette, little pizza pieces and a fab fresh cherry /custard type tart and our first intro to Burgundian wines starting with 2014 village level Clos du Chateau de Puligny - Montrachet followed by a 2015 Maranges 1er Cru.
Onward to complete the ride which was NOT for sissies and included a “massive hill” (Damian’s words 2+k up hill) before coasting to the incredible Abbaye de Bussiere, a former Abby that the former owners of Amberly Castle hotel in England bought from the Catholic Church and have made it outstanding with fab grounds and room and Michelin restaurant.
Our first “event” by B&R was that evening with wine expert Jean-Pierre Renard who gave us history (think Jurassic, monks - no relation - limestone, climate) and explanation of the four levels of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes which are Bourgogne, Village, 1er Cru, Grand Cru. On to dinner, which was actually meant to be the final night’s meal, but Damian revealed that we are doing the trip in reverse. That explains a few things. So tired, we skip the pomp and circumstance of all courses and go to bed, but topped off with a Grand Cru Pinot Noir. Don’t ask me from where it came. A 10 of a day.
Sunday, June 3, 2018 - Day 2 - 40 miles
Another beauty of a day plus a fab breakfast spread and we started down the canals making our way eventually to the hill town of Chateauneuf-en-Auxios. The canals are peaceful and a nice ride through countryside and delightful and quiet tiny Burgundy villages. Roses are everywhere and breathtaking. We left the vineyards on the other side of the mountains and were surrounded by wheat, peas, wildflowers and cows. And then the vertical climb up to Chateauneuf…dang. But well rewarded with a casual lunch of crepes, ratatouille, and ice cream…oh and beers, at L'Oree du Bois, a small cafe with delightful terrace by the church.
Brian, Mills and Suzanne head back for a tour of the Abby grounds and the rest of us coulda, shoulda but chose to flex our egos and continue on for a total of 41 miles. Hills and hell as we surpass our enthusiast level IMO. But allors, a good reminder for the next time the ego devil sits on my shoulder. Regardless, a 10 of a day.
Drinks outside while Clive, the owner, held court which was very interesting before heading inside to the more casual restaurant. The same cherry tart was totally boring and could not touch Mapie’s. A Chablis among others for the night and wait for it…a 10 of a day.
Monday, June 4, 2018 - Day 3 - 24 miles
Overnight storms thankfully cleared and the overcast skies were a welcome temp, though eventually giving way to sun, also good. We packed up and a taxi took us to meet Damian at Bligny-sur-Ouche ultimately to Montrachet. Back over the hills to the land of vineyards with yet another significant hill, but we are expert “enthusiasts” now, so piece of cake…right? But a wonderful view from the cliffs into the village and vineyards below before heading on to Mapie and Franck to meet us with lunch at the L'abbaye de Morgeot, and the vineyard belonging to a Marquis/Duke of Magenta called Domaine du Duc de Magena. His widow is Scottish and her sister and cousin met us along with the Domaine Director of Operations for a lesson in winemaking before lunch (while the Duchess tended the tourists for the season up at their private Chateau de Sully about 30 minutes away.) We tried their Bourgogne, 1er cru and sparking wine cremant. And of course got our B&R biking shirts. Lunch was outstanding again with ham, roast beef, beets and feta, cous cous, salad, pate, tomato stuffed with guacamole, potato salad, plus molten chocolate cakes and orange slices. If only….
A quick 6K into town to our new hotel L'Hotel Montrachet. A much welcomed day of 24 miles total. We met Jane Eyre (yes that is her name and later revealed the Australian hairdresser turned winemaker and ex-daughter-in-law to Jean Pierre - how about them grapes?? - a small world in those vineyards.) She explained much more easily for our American ears about the wines in an experiential outdoor “classroom” among the Chardonnay vineyards with wines from Meursault-Perrieres 1er Cru and others of the area.
Dinner (DOYO) was a drive to Pommard for a fine meal of ravioli en boullion, beef cheeks and frothy cheese dessert at Aupres du Clocher. And 1er and Grand Cru red and white of the area. It was….a ten of a day esp as the storms once again held off before settling in.
Tuesday, June 5th, 2018 - Day 4 - 24 miles
And the rains cleared off and we were treated to an unexpected dry day. YAY. We started pedaling later (another YAY) and headed for a relatively easy (triple YAY) 25 miles or so ride through the villages and countryside, back on the Route de Grand Cru of the Cote d'Beune. Lunch was a welcome sight in the charming village of Meursault at Le Bouchon restaurant. Cokes, beers, frites, and salads were lingered over and then a short ride back to Montrachet to chill and watch the French Open as our buddy Zverev got crushed, but Americans Madison Keys and Sloane Stephens advanced to the semis.
Drinks at 6:30 in the pretty hotel courtyard (another YAY for vodka and gin) and dinner at 7 in a private room. Wow. This was a treat. The private room overlooked the courtyard with a large open window and the opposite was a window into the sparkling clean kitchen. Apparently a Michelin starred restaurant that had recently lost its star, no one understands why, and we certainly couldn’t tell as the meal was gorgeous new french cuisine and sophisticated. But the best was Brian in his element. The day was a….dix plus.
Wednesday, June 6th, 2018 - Day 5 - 26 real miles, 15 e-bike miles
Off to Beune as we had a lovely and FLAT ride through the vineyards, once again in pretty weather and back on the Route de Grand Cru in the Cote de Beune area. We arrived at the L'Hotel de Beaune right off the main square, Place Carnot, and settled in on the terrace of the Hotel’s pizzeria which rivals any Italian pizza. We will have one of each kind thank you. The hotel has a pretty little courtyard, but the lobby is small and not very attractive, which was very deceiving since the hotel had lovely rooms, a huge and very modern bathroom and beautiful Italian sheets made up as we would want! The Pecheleses and Bordens were just down a bit in another building for just rooms 8 & 9. There was clearly some Jill love going on as the Pecheles room was a pure palace.
Then, time for e-bikes as Damian arranged for us all to have a short ride on e-bikes since B&R Euro HQ is in Beune. Fun to see the behind the scenes a bit of B&R, but more fun to take off on e-bikes for 15 miles culminating in XXX with a very vertical hill demonstrating the happiness of an e-bike in turbo! We navigated the Beune traffic back to B&R and returned to the hotel for some more French Open.
Before dinner, we met Kelly, our guide for the Musee de l'Hotel Dieu, Hospice de Beune tour. A common French sight over the centuries for Hospital of God to take in the poor sick for free. It is a beautiful collection of buildings (note the tiled roof) that was originally from the 15th century and worked through the early 1970’s. All quite interesting and highly recommend.
Dinner was in the Hotel Bistro, which was not busy, but of course got our daily dose of French grumbling and being shushed. Dinner was beautiful of roast chicken and day 5 of mashed potatoes. Damien made this a farewell dinner of sorts with lovely gifts for everyone…french vodka and gin for the fellas and wine books for the gals. Very sweet.
Thursday, June 7, 2018 - Day 6 - 13 miles…..
Another pretty day and sadly our last day. ANOTHER fab breakfast spread and all set for a big ride and big hill….(another French verbal whipping for not stopping exactly at the stop light) and then halfway through the ride, the showers came down…hard. So after 13 miles, hiding out in a construction site and soaked, we hoisted the bikes up on top of the van and went to our scheduled lunch at Comte Senard and the Table d'Hotes or lunch with a tasting of their wines (Caveau de Degustation.) It was an interesting cold soup (not what we wanted at that point after spending hours in the bathroom drying socks and such under the hand dryer), but still delicious of fresh orange juice, avocado and chives followed by vegetable pizza rustica and large salade verte. Lighting and thunder and unsettled skies thwarted the additional ride and we vanned back to Beune to take a look around. Of course, beautiful weather there, which works for shopping.
The usual French Open during rest period and we joined Damien in the lobby to give him his well deserved tip and small gifts for his children, Maggie and Tim. We walked out of the Old City to grab a drink at a bar near to Marchand-Tawes, a local Domaine. A new venture for this Domaine to make better use of the in-town building, it had a new and immaculate cellar and lovely retail and private dining area. Mark, the British winemaker (and former B&R guide) joined us for dinner and talked and talked about their wines. The meal was spectacular (scallops, tomato confit and arugula salad, duck breast with a blueberry reduction and mashed potato and duck touring. Lots of crement, village, 1er Cru and even a Grand Cru, but they were total rookies at sales and we left quickly for a more relaxed night cap on the Place Carnot.
Friday, June 8, 2018
Breakfast was savored of course (can’t miss a pain au chocolat.) Famed and posted rail strikes cancelled our travel plans so we taxied 3 hrs back to Paris arriving right on time at Noon to the Hotel d'Abusson. Rooms not ready, so we headed down the street per Jean the concierge to Cafe de la Paris for a delightful lunch of Croque Monsieur, omelette, salads and of course frites, while the Whichards headed to their tour of The Louvre. A sunny day made for good walking to the St. Germain de Pres shopping areas (think LK Bennett, Cos and the likes.) Aftewards, a stroll to Notre Dame and back down by the Seine before meeting our Venetian motor boat for a tour of Paris en bateau. Beautiful day, from the Statue of Liberty to the end of the Tuileries Gardens, with the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, the Musee d'Orsay, the Louvre and everything in between to view topped off with some Moët Champagne. Hard to beat.
Drinks in the Jazz bar before heading just around the corner to Le Christine, a hip spot that is supposedly just about to get a Michelin star, but still undiscovered by the masses. Modern rustic small front room which was perfect for us with larger room in the back. Minimal menu with langoustines in lime, followed by fab light grilled gnocchi in broth. Dessert was meh, but looked pretty. A nightcap in the Jazz bar was the final salute (though a stroll along the lights of the Seine according to William is highly recommended…maybe even a night boat cruise next time.) 8 10s.
Saturday, June 9, 2018
Au revoir
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