Verona, Dolomites, Venice - Sun July 23 - Sun July 30
Link to Google Maps: Italy - Dolomites · William
Sunday, 7/23
Arrived Venice a bit late after a 2 hr weather delay in Philly. Driver picked us up and we headed to Verona for a view and lunch before heading to Alpe di Siusi region of the Dolomites. A bit foggy in the head of course, we did a fly-through of Verona with a ride to the top of a hill for a view and a tour of the Roman amphitheater. Very pretty town all uniform in color and tiled roofs. Lunch was in the center (central) on an off street from the main shopping drag at Locanda 4 Cuochi and 100 meters from the famous balcony window of Juliette in Romeo and Juliette. Packed with tourists in the small courtyard inside a re-purposed palazzo, we looked and left. It was about a 1.5 hour drive to our hotel Alpina Dolomiti.
A very lovely, new hotel with awesome (Giordi’s favorite English word) views at the top of the ski mtn in a big meadow sitting just below the mountain monoliths jutting out of the meadows. Quite the curvy drive up (don’t sit backwards) to the top but great views of the first main group of mountains, the Sassolungo and Sassopiatto. Beautiful breakfast and dinners included and with full spa, indoor/outdoor pool and right at the gondola. We met with Giordano (Giordi) to plan the week’s activities before dinner which is included. The proprietors also own a hotel in the village below called Gardena Grödnerhof Gourmet & Spa Hotel in Ortisei in Val Gardena.
Monday, 7/24
Met Giordi at 9am to go biking on the trails. We rented e-bikes which are all the Euro rage and the only way to bike this area IMO with serious inclines and vertical rise. There are trails, slope (piste) access road, regular roads and paved single back roads/trails. We had mountain bikes and rode on a mix of all of the above. The entire area is connected by trails and ski chairlifts and gondolas, so you can hike and ski the whole region extensively from trail to trail and slope to slope. Saw everything from cows with cowbells/ donkeys/ and horses in steep meadows to streams, cliffs wildflowers all surrounded by the amazing mountains. Weather started out beautiful, but storms moved in so that the last 15 minutes of our ride was in pouring rain before getting to the “hutte” (hut) for lunch. (This one had a particularly cool - modern and spacious - bathroom!)
There are truly tiny wooden huts dotting the Sudtirol landscape everywhere that are owned privately, but the lunch huts are typically restaurants at the mtn top located near the chairlifts and gondolas. Some have rooms for staying, most are just day restaurants. Often not so much to see from the outside, they are full of character inside and delicious food. Lots of times, there are activities for kiddies outside like playgrounds, etc. This time it was a haven from the rain which was also lightening and thunder. While it continued to storm for 2 hrs, we ordered red wine and played Heads Up to the amusement of those around us. Finally cleared up, though noticeably colder with new snowfall on the not too distance peaks, enough to head back and take a taxi service back to our hotel that Giordi arranged from the mtn top. A big help. Unique and great day despite rain. Covered somewhere between 25 and 39K depending on who you asked?
Low point - deciding to go on for “300 meters only” on a tough rocky thin trail when it was clear a storm was coming in 5 minutes; Alicia taking a spill on a wet wooden bridge; Mike’s e-bike locking up; seeking shelter under a ski-lift that offered no shelter from lightening; no answer to “How far?”; didn’t finish “the loop”
High points - all day, scenery; e-bikes going up a hill, awesome modern euro bathrooms with everyone using the hand dryers to ray their clothes, zuppa d patate, Heads Up, hot tub back at the hotel.
Tuesday, 7/25
To prevent similar weather mishaps, Giordi got us going at 8am to go on our hiking complete with bags packed for the next destination. We left the Val di Gardena and eventually heading to Val Badia and San Cassiano to Rosa Alpina Hotel. Our car dropped us off at the Dentercepies Gondola in Selva di Val Gardena and took our luggage on as we were to hike to the hotel. We hiked around the for about 10 K over about 5 hours, through the village of Corvara and landed at the Rifugio Colalt (2000 meters) Hut for a great meal, again. This time was tagliatelle with venison ragu….and red wine of local grape called Lagriend. Long debate about going or taking the chairlift down and take a taxi back to the hotel. Storm chasers lost (and a good decision) as rains moved in and tired legs could recover at the hotel. Steep hike down from the hut through a wooded forest, which was pretty but telling on the knees. Now get the ubiquitous Euro use of poles.
The Rosa Alpina is in the heart of tiny San Cassiano and is lovely, very alpine in look and feel. Snug and intimate, but plenty of space, it uses every inch efficiently for two indoor pools, outdoor garden, lovely common areas, spa, etc. Good for families and just adults. It has the best restaurant in the Dolomites with 2 Michelin stars, but allora…not for us. Too fancy. We chose their grill which was perfect for pizza sitting outside and with blankets over us.
As always, weather required layers, though not terribly chilly. Just cool, esp at higher elevations.
Low points - storm discussion/potential; free grappa (tastes likes gasoline)
High points - All day, views, lunch and the proprietor, pizza and the outdoor setting for dinner; brunello
Wednesday, 7/26
A short ride up the mountain to the gondola area where we started immediately on the trail though a small meadow before walking along a thin trail on the ledge of the mountain side with incredible views 360 degrees of all the Dolomites peaks and formations. Unreal beauty and very diverse landscape and trails through rock fields, meadows, and mtn ledges. An 11k hike for 4 hours until breaking into a meadow and lunching at the next hutte. This was spectacular hiking as we were much more in the higher elevations and in the rocky mountainside. Wildflowers, an ibex and 360 degree views, some of the trail parts were not for everyone. This was trail number 23 (we called the Jordan Trail.)
There are millions of trails and all levels of degrees and can be hiked in a million different ways. All are very well marked both along the trail and at intersecting trails. Giordi definitely pushed us and while it was trying at times from rocky steep inclines to don’t-look-below narrow trails along the mountainsides, we were always glad to have done it. Views are spectacular.
We invited Giordi and his girlfriend Monica to join us for dinner, going to the next village for a place known for its grilled foods called L’Fana just down the road in Badia. It was on the basement floor and lots of alpine, intimate, low ceiling atmosphere. We had house speciality of steak tartare, grilled t-bone and a Fiortina style (Tuscan aged haunch grilled rare) plus mixed grills and some local pastas. Great night.
Low points - knee aches
High points - Seeing the Ibex just below scale a boulder as if Velcro on its hooves, the whole trail, wild flowers, lunch at Rifugio Pralongia Hutte with adorable frau who spoke 8 languages, and the proprietor in his lederhosen shorts; excellent local brut and grappa di grassi…and dinner of course.
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#knifewieldingmonicasnotavegatarian; #gordyhearsrain; #bendyourelbows; #dashinheredashinthere; #manneqinsrcold; #aureliaheartsthetunes
Thursday, 7/27
Today was a “rest day” going back to our starting point yesterday but taking the “cableway” up to the top of Falzarengo to see the “open air museum” and the Trail de Grande Guerre" which are hikes and explorations of the Austrian-Hungarian holds in this mtn full of tunnels and war holes to fight the Italians during WWI. (The Italians won.) This is fascinating and way up at the top of the mountain with unreal surrounding views. Chilly overcast day and colder at the top. Used every layer and happy to have Giordi’s gloves as well. Went back down to hike to the Cinque Torri or 5 Towers, a wonderful upcropping of five peaks particularly known for beginning climbing and for the Italian war forts and hideaways. Not a long hike, but def strenuous at times, esp in the steep and rocky climb near the top and the ledge trail to get to the Refugio Lagzuoi Hut. Polenta and Goulash warmed the body together with a local Pinot Nero. Quite the rest day. Giordi carried climbing gear, in case, to try at the Cinque Torri. Alas, another time.
After lunch, tired legs took us another half K to the chairlift down to Cortina, known for it glitz and glamor and sort of the Aspen of Italy, esp in the heyday of the La Dolce Vita 50’s and 60’s. A taxi took us to a short distance to the Hotel Cristallo, a bit above and overlooking the main town. Arriving late, we chose to stay in and eat from the bar menu. They set a table on the veranda, loaded us up with blankets, had soup, salad, burgers and such bar food, enjoying the view of the Cinque Torri and surrounding mountains.
The Cristallo Hotel is old and famous with great photos from its past, reminiscent perhaps of the Sun Valley Inn. It is quite modern, though old world in decor. A grand, fairly large place, it is definitely quiet and relaxing. Another good option would be to stay in town for the bustle of it all.
Low points - seeing the final ledge walk; a not hot enough hot tub
High Points - the whole day, esp the 5 Torri and WWI Lopez air exhibits, hotel tour giggles, blankets and bellinis
#aureluiaskatesthroughthespa; #frauleingetsthegiggles; #gordy'smathsucks; #weclosedtheloop; #grassygrappo; #blueberryliquor
Friday, 7/28
Upon request of another day of e-biking, Giordi planned an “easy” day around Cortina by bike. All started well through town, old railroad rail to trails and through meadows. Not very familiar with the area, the ride was shorter than he expected and so he suggested we could go on to the next hut, but he did say it would be a 1000 meter incline and rather hard. We declined, but somehow as with Giordi and his infectious enthusiasm, we ended up doing it. It was hard and not very fun, but finally arrived in an open alpine valley rocky meadow with mountains surrounding us. He was thrilled. “He was so happy that we made the Rifugio Sennes Hutte.”
Whether hiking or biking, downhill not always fun, but we handled this better than expected. Once back, we turned in the bikes and turned up a bierra. An adventure, but glad we did it after it was over. The hotel fetched us from town and Giordi and Monica joined us in the Cristallo garden for a beer and goodbyes where he presented us with the local Lagriend and Gurtztrameiner wines.
We cleaned up and headed into town for a walk around. It is a fun town and the Centro has a good mix of high fashion and outdoor stores. Fun to poke around. We dined at the Porto Rotondo right in the center beside the wonderful white church and its bell tower that dominates the valley vista. Famous for its pizza, we ate inside by default since outside was full and glad we did, both for the comfort of cozy and warm, but mostly for the fantastic photos dotting the walls of celebs throughout the years in Sardenia, where the owner is from plus his special desserts of ricotta cheese and black honey and a blackberry-jello type thing.
Low points - Guess, plus a wipe out in the easy flats.
High points - Radler (aka a shanty in English), walking through town and dinner, making Gordy so happy, charging station at hut
Saturday, 7/29
Ciao to the Dolomiti as a driver takes us to Venice for a day of boating and exploring the outer islands of Murano, Burano and Torcello. Murano never ceases to amaze the wonders of watching and learning about glass blowing. We then headed to Burano where the art of lace making became famous. The houses and piazzas are know for their colorful palette and cleanliness. The lacemaking art is not as widespread now as it is so expensive, but it is amazing to learn about it and watch it being made. A design is drawn on paper and then one woman specializing in a particular stitch will work on it and then pass to another who specializing in a different stitch. The finished piece is true art as we saw in a small museum.
On to Torcello which is tiny with virtually no inhabitants and only one small canal entrance and exit. There are several restaurants for day trippers including the Locanda Cipriani, which is a relative of the famous Cipriani bar and hotels. Lunch in their garden is a special occasion, that still can be relaxed and casual. A true treat. Back for a aerial view from San Giorgio church bell tower also seeing a fine dinner being set up next door for Yachting buyers and San Giorgio as a location for the Art Biannale around the city, featuring Micheangelo somebody famous from Milan and his very contemporary use of mirrors.
Back to the Gritti for drinks before heading to Hosteria al Vecio Bragosso, which was suggested by the hotel and where locals go. I didn’t love the street, but the restaurant was delicious esp the Tubot per duo al forno. Amazing and funny as per.
Sunday, 7/30
Woke up to a cancelled flight, no rooms at the Inn and rebooked by American for Wednesday. Not many options, but luckily landed on a Delta flight. Passport control Italian typicalities of long lines and inefficiencies lead to flight delays, but that’s travel and besides, it only adds to the story!
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