Palm Springs, Joshua Tree National Park, Rancho Mirage, Torrey Pines - December 26 2022 - Jan 1 2023
The Skinny
Tuesday, Dec 27
Walked the main strip of Palm Canyon Drive early
Attempted the Aerial Tram, but booked
Hiked the Tahquitz Canyon trail
Hiked the Palm Springs Art Museum Trail
Late lunch at Chicken Ranch
Drove a self-guided audio tour of the architecture of Palm Springs
Drinks at Holiday House Hotel
Dinner at Workshop + Bar
Wednesday, Dec 28
Drove to and hiked the Ladders Canyon Trails en route to Joshua Tree National Park
Hiked/walked Cholla Cactus Garden and Hall of Horrors in Joshua Tree
Checked into the Ritz Carlton and ate dinner there
Thursday, Dec 29
Golf at the Classic Club (formerly site of Bob Hope Classic)
Spa morning followed by shopping on El Paseo Drive
Street Fair night in Palm Springs and late opening times at the Palm Springs Art Museum
Drinks at Melvyns at Ingleside Inn (Sinatra hangout spot)
Dinner at Azucar at Las Serenas hotel
Friday, Dec 30
Depart for Torrey Pines; gorgeous drive through the San Bernardino Mountains
Lunch in La Jolla at iconic The Taco Stand restaurant
Hiked though Torrey Pines State Park
Drinks at L’Auberge Hotel in Del Mar
Dinner at Ken’s Sushi Workshop
Saturday, Dec 31
Golf on the Torrey Pines North Course
Spa Day
NYE dinner at the Lodge
The Meat on the Bones
A late in the year decision to take a post Christmas family trip had us scrambling, so we decided to give Palm Springs a try esp since hotels were readily available unlike many other destinations we tried. We considered a house rental, but just couldn’t get our arms around the how and more, the where to do that. If we went back, this might be a good option for a family. Weather was good not great. It had been perfect over Christmas with clear skies and 80 degrees, but apparently it can be a bit more unsettled in December with overcast, sometimes rain and highs in the 60’s. Nevertheless, it was good enough each day and generally partly sunny with highs around 70. We’ll take it.
Monday, Dec 26
Travel never easy and such the case here. Weather, delays, no reserved rental car, no one at Colony Palms reception upon very late arrival. Ah, but the beds, pillows and linens once in our room were divine…Def recommend. Note, Even the Palm Springs Airport has the vibe with cool outdoor terminals and desert grounds.
Tuesday, Dec 27
East Coast time had us up at 7am, so we walked the main strip of Palm Canyon Drive early to find a bit to eat and then to get our rental minivan with success! A leisurely breakfast at the Colony Palms Colony Club restaurant before we headed out for the day. We drove over to attempt walk up tickets for the Aerial Tram since pre-bookings online were sold out and had been for several weeks. (Word to the wise…book far in advance. Same for any tours.) Pivoted, cruised the windmill area and then headed to the Tahquitz Native American Reservation to hike the Tahquitz Canyon trail which was easy, short, and lovely leading to an Oasis. (Look up the definition.) Since we had a late breakfast, we skipped the other Native American hiking lands called Indian Canyons. Next time. But we did head back in town to hike the Palm Springs Art Museum Trail which is a 1.7 mile trail straight up from behind the Palm Springs Art Museum. Def a bit rigorous, but very worth the fantastic views. It can be a much longer hike if you want tying in with other trails. The plan to see the museum was void since it is only open Thursday-Sunday. Hungry, we went back to an outdoor place we had passed called Chicken Ranch, which suited us for the outdoor setting, but while the food was fine, we wished later we had thought to go to Tac-Quila, famous for their tacos and margaritas. Next time.
There are tons of tours from any angle (celebrities, architecture, walk, bike, etc., you name it), but once again, they fill up, so take note for planning. Next time. On to Plan B: we downloaded an audio self-driving architectural tour…and it was perfect for us. Leaned a ton, and we could be a bit flex, though sometimes cell signal was disruptive. We saw both residential and commercial buildings of the modernist/desert modernist style - Swiss Miss A frame and Butterfly. It was fun just to get off into the neighborhoods (such as Little Tuscany and Movie Colony) which included the most famous house in PS, the Kaufman House (of the Pittsburgh Kaufmans a la Falling Water fame) as well as Elvis and Priscilla Presley’s honeymoon house.
Dark by 5pm in the desert, so time for evening action. We debated a number of places for a cocktail and landed at the Holiday House Hotel, which has been renovated by a couple who have a extensive art collection they move around through the hotel. Like most of the Palm Springs hotels, refurbished rooms surround the courtyard pool and all have their version of a restaurant and bar and the same was true for Holiday House. Delightfully mid-century modern, its bar area is also the lobby leading straight to the outdoor small restaurant and while decorated in the Palm Springs manner, it was hip, cozy and far from kitschy. Dinner afterwards at Workshop + Bar. Book far in advance to be in the unique inside decor, but outside was a delight even when it started to raining as they quickly moved all tables underneath covering. Every restaurant has outdoor space, which is de rigeur, and they are well equipped for cool temps. Even the cool temps are not as cool as we are used to simply because of the desert dry air. Delicious, sophisticated food.
Wednesday, Dec 28
Awoke to gorgeous weather for a day in Joshua Tree National Park. Checked out of the Colony Palms, which we really liked for the small size, location, and calm atmosphere and opted to drive south and do the Ladder Canyon Trail, just outside JTNP and labeled as one of the best hikes in California. And it was, though it took us a minute to figure out the best route after an arduous 5 mile rough dirt road to the trail. Just go slowly. Four wheel drive is not necessary as the site warns. Great fun hiking hiking in canyons, climbing ladders in slot canyons and then traversing the ridge. About 4-5 miles and can be longer or shorter with a series of trails…though they are not overly well marked. Download your All Trails! It was also interesting to drive through Indio and the Coachella Valley en route seeing all the agricultural crops being grown.
We entered Joshua Tree on the South entrance and drove the length of the park with thoughts of doing a few short hikes….as did everyone else. It was very crowded, so we skimmed a few places (Cholla Cactus Garden, Skull Rock, Hall of Horrors) but mostly just enjoyed the scenery from the car. Great to see, but one day is plenty. Check.
We came back through the mini San Bernardino Mountains into the valley, which is interesting in and of itself, and headed to Rancho Mirage to the Ritz Carlton. Up Frank Sinatra Drive in the mountains, it had great views of the valley, but was very busy with a large campus and lots of families there for the holidays. Sorta missed our Palm Colony scene or lack thereof, but it did have the full range of amenities. After much driving and the Holiday Bowl game being played 2 hrs away, we opted to eat at State Fare, the “causal” restaurant on campus. Unfortunately, the higher end Edge Steakhouse, which has gorgeous views on the edge of the mountain, was closed and has been closed since covid. Apparently, they plan to re-open in the next 3 months.
Thursday, Dec 29
Let’s change it up. While the fellas played golf at The Classic Club as recommended by Will's colleagues at G/FORE, the gals enjoyed a leisurely morning of fitness club, spa, late breakfast (and pool if you wanted.)The plan was to hit El Paseo (the Worth Ave of the desert area about 5 miles from Rancho Mirage) and then dress and go into Palm Springs to shop Palm Canyon Drive and go to the Art Museum which is open late on Thursday. El Paseo was a big hit though with a pretty and long stench of Pacifico and Portable VIa……………..and after getting a late start and also realizing that Palm Springs shops essentially close at 4pm daily, we had a late lunch and headed to the Palm Springs Art Museum around 5pm only to discover that every Thursday is Street Fair day in Palm Springs and why the museum stays open. Started in the 80’s by then mayor Sonny Bono, it has been a hit ever since. And it was happening. Apparently Palm Springs is known to shut down early and be fairly sleepy in the evening, but not on Thursdays. Most stores open and vendors lining the streets with every kind of ethnic food available. But the art museum was the real place to be, packed and complete with DJ and cocktails set up. Very festive and fun.
From the museum, we walked down to the iconic Melvyn’s located at the Ingleside Inn and Avalon hotels. A long time Rat Pack piano bar and restaurant, we wanted to have martinis for the complete experience. Afterwards, we stepped over to Las Serena Hotel for dinner at their Azucar restaurant. Insiders know to ask for the rooftop seating, but being late to the game and rookies, we were seated poolside….which was just as delightful. Excellent Mexican food. Highly recommend. Ubered back to the Ritz.
Friday, Dec 30
Very sad to leave the desert valley, but time for the next leg departing for Torrey Pines near San Diego/La Jolla/Del Mar. The gorgeous drive through the San Bernardino Mountains was a surprise bonus on the curvy two lane road through the moonlike desert mountains. We opted for lunch in La Jolla just to see it and went to the iconic Taco Stand restaurant as recommended by an insider. A fun experience with great tacos and street corn. We hustled through La Jolla on to Torrey Pines, past UCal San Diego to the Lodge at Torrey Pines which is famed for its Arts and Crafts architecture, the two Pacific-side golf courses and its location bedside the historic Torrey Pines State Park. The hope was to hike through the park and ocean trail to Del Mar to see the sunset, but we underestimated the distance and the clouds prevented a sunset anyway. But we did enjoy a 3 mile leg stretcher through the cliffs to the Ocean and completed the plan with an Ubered finish for drinks at L’Auberge Hotel in Del Mar.
But the real treat was still to come. Once again, inside sources recommended dinner at Ken’s Sushi Workshop who happen to be buddies with Ken as good customers. Ken is a highly trained sushi chef, but a character himself in a very small, non-descript restaurant in a strip center. People flock to sit at the counter where he serves you what he thinks is best until you raise the white flag. Best sushi ever, but mainly cause he made it special. A must. Oh and share some of your sake with Ken.
Saturday, Dec 31
Weather moving in, but mostly not until later in the evening, so we lucked out in playing golf even though fog and mist were very much a part of the day. Torrey Pines is a public golf course open to anyone. Getting a tee time is the challenge, but it helps to stay at the Lodge which buys the tee times from the City of San Diego for their guests every day from 8am -11am. So we opted for a 9:15am time on the “easier” and more scenic North Course. Easy is relative as the fairways are super narrow and the 2nd cut lush rough simply swallows balls. Another Lodge guest joined us who had lived in the area before and was very familiar with the courses saying the weather was actually on par and part of the Torrey Pines experience. It did lift for the most part for unreal views of the Pacific. Meanwhile, non-golfers enjoyed a spa day and relaxing by the fire pits around the Grill.
New Year’s Eve often brings forced fun along with prix fixe “special” restaurant meals. Given that, we embraced it, sucked up the steep per person cost and chose to eat at the Lodge. A good choice given the ensuing inclement weather and the overall ease. Plus, the Lodge is a cozy spot with lovely outdoor spaces which we enjoyed for drinks and had a nice secluded table for dinner at their fancy restaurant AR Valentien. The mandatory 5 course meal and super expensive California only wine list was not worth the price tag, but the experience overall was lots of fun making the cost somewhat more palatable. Oh, and celebrating East Coast New Year’s at 9pm PST is an unexpected plus.
Sunday, Jan 1, 2023
Happy New Year and headed home.
Insider Notes
Palm Springs
You will love the Colony and the Ritz is very special. The historic bike tour is a must. Avalon, Ingleside Inn and La Serena also looked like great places to stay.
Jakes is a good restaurant in Palm Springs.
I really think Palm Springs is the place to stay. It’s just a very unique vibe that appeals to all ages.
Parts of Palm Springs are seedy touristy others great. Mid century antique shops are worth a short visit.
Modern Art Museum is great.
The Modernist Market comes out from LA first Sat of every month.
Renting a house is a great thing to do. Movie Colony is a great area E.g: https://www.vrbo.com/815049?unitId=1362987&childrenCount=0&arrival=2022-12-26&departure=2023-01-01
Hire a chef for a night.
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