Pacific Northwest: September 2017
The Skinny
Quick downlow aka Itinerary: (skip and read afterwards for more detailed accounting)
Thursday, 9/7
Whidby Island, Puget Sound, WA
Mukilteo is the place to catch the ferry to Whidby Island, (no reservation needed) one of the main Puget Sound islands along with Bainbridge and Vashon. BUT Mukilteo is also home to Boeing Aircraft HQ - take a tour.
Arrived Clinton, Whidby Island, WA and drove 10 mins to the delightful little town of Langley and the Inn at Langley. Dinner at Saltwater Cafe
Friday, 9/8
Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park, WA
Hit the road for Coupeville to get the ferry (reservation required) from Fort Casey State Park to go to Port Townsend. Olympic National Park about 1.5 hrs away to Hurricane Ridge and over to Lake Crescent Lodge, which is a rustic, quaint, typical National Park Inn about 45 minutes away. Dinner at the Lodge.
Saturday, Sept 9
Lake Quinault, Olympic National Forest, WA
The Sol Duc Falls is a fab hike 1 mile through the forest. On to the Hoh Rainforest on the southwest part of the park before parking it at Lake Quinault Lodge. The 1 mile Hall of Mosses Loop at the visitor center is a must the Hoh Rainforest trail. It was about a 2 hr drive to Lake Quinault Lodge. Dinner at the Lodge.
Sunday, September 10
Lake Quinault, Olympic National Forest, WA
Backtracked up Hwy 101 about 1.5 hours away to Second Beach. Nice little 1 mile trek to the beach. Cleaned up for an evening drive on the Lake Quinault Rainforest Loop. Dinner was at The Salmon House just down the road.
Monday, September 11
Paradise, Mt. Rainer National Park, WA
Split for Mt. Rainer National Park, 3.5 hours away. We arrived at the Paradise Inn (6000 feet) and Visitor’s Center and immediately took off for the Skyline Trail which is about a 5 mile loop up the base of Mt. Rainer. Dinner at the Lodge.
Tuesday, September 12
Mt. Rainer National Park, WA
Alas, original plans were to head to Sunrise in the Northeast area of the park, but forest fires had closed much of the northern parts of the Park. So, we regrouped and went to the Stevens Canyon area. Dinner at the Lodge.
Wednesday, September 13
Mt Hood National Forest, Oregon
Set Waze for 3 hr drive to Mt. St. Helens and then after a 3 hr drive to Mt Hood National Forest and the Timberline Lodge. Dinner there in the famed Cascade Dining Room.
Thursday, September 14
Cannon Beach, OR
Uncontained wildfires all along the Columbia River Gorge had closed any access to the area, so off to Astoria before arriving at Cannon Beach. It was a 3.5 hr drive to Astoria from Mt Hood to Astoria. Next up: Cannon Beach which is a delightful gray shingled small beach town about 40 minutes from Astoria with the famed Haystack rock formation. The Ocean Lodge was just outside of town. Dinner at The Bistro.
Friday, September 15
Cannon Beach, Oregon
Oswald State Park to do the Falcon Trail as well as Ecole State Park. Dinner that night was at The Stephanie Inn.
Saturday, September 16
Portland, Oregon - Toured the neighborhoods and had dinner at Q.
Want Dets and Pics?? Read more….
The Meat on the Bones
Thursday, 9/7
Whidby Island, Puget Sound, WA
All flights went well though had to do a mild sprint through CLT when our PGV flt was late. Arrived SeaTac, got the Sienna minivan and headed out. First stop: Mukilteo, about 45 mins north of SeaTac. (Great view of Seattle since you go right through it on I-5, though no view of anything else as the forest fires haze and smoke blocked any vista that might be there.)
Mukilteo is the place to catch the ferry to Whidby Island (no reservation needed), one of the main Puget Sound islands along with Bainbridge and Vashon. BUT Mukilteo is also home to Boeing Aircraft HQ and a tour was in order. This is a serious tour that is 90 minutes, involves buses, security, etc., and it is so cool to see the 787, 747 and 777’s being made, understand the history of aviation and the MASSIVE campus. A must.
Afterwards, we hopped the minivan and went to the ferry which was delayed because of an ambulance on the incoming ferry, (interesting to see) and then boarded for the 20 minute ride. In the small world serendipity category, the car beside us, a commuter as most were, laughed at our antics and loud accents, which lead the next commuter to ask where in NC we were from and BAM…she was from Rutherfordton and was in Janie’s class!!!!!! Cindy Crowder. Wild.
Arrived Clinton, Whidby Island and drove 10 mins to the delightful little town of Langley and the Inn at Langley. RIght on the Puget Sound, it is two streets of restaurants, galleries, coffee shops and basic needs. The Inn is a lovely FLW type structure with every room having a private waterfront balcony practically extending over the water’s edge (no worries for Hurricanes and erosion, but tsunmais yes!) Large rooms and bathroom with waterfront tub, it is known for its restaurant. It only serves on the weekends however, but breakfast is included and it is a divine, understated gourmet experience.
Walked up the street, surveyed the restaurants and chose the new seafood spot, Saltwater, that was small and very jovial. Perched in the window table, we gorged on WA state oysters and various local seafoods. In bed by 9:30. Slept with the porch door open to hear the water. (No AC in these environs.)
#aintgoingifitaintboeing ##lookatmyhairnowbecause #areyousuretherearemountainsoutthere #hillbillyelegy #Irma
Friday, 9/8
Lake Crescent, Olympic National Park, WA
Hit the road for Coupeville to get the ferry from Fort Casey State Park to go to Port Townsend, which is where we originally thought to stay until the Wooden Boat Festival squashed that. "People book their hotels 7 years out.“ But frankly, happier with how it worked out. PT is a charming town too, known for its Victorian meets Boho vibe. We cruised the festival, which was actually fascinating to see everything in wood, sailboats, motor boats of every size and personality, plus paddle boards, kayaks, etc. It’s a Thing clearly. Lunched at the Silverwater Cafe and onward to Olympic National Park about 1.5 hrs away to Hurricane Ridge, which is supposed (key word here) to be a park highlight, but alas, it was socked in from rain and fog this time, not smoke. Nevertheless, it cleared some to get a glimpse of the mtns and we hiked the minor paths around the visitors center. (Tip: Should have gone 5 mins more to hike Hurricane Hill.) Drove down and over to Lake Crescent Lodge, which is a typical National Park Inn about 45 minutes away. Rustic and quaint, the main lodge is small and totally charming with burning fire, front enclosed porch on the lake and a hodge podge of newer room additions scattered around the grounds. We flipped for the small room with no private bath (gotta love a Nat’l Park Inn) in the lodge as opposed to the motor lodge style Marymere freestanding building with 2 queen beds and private bath.
The lake is known for it azure blue waters and 600+ feet deep. Late evening made it was hard to see this, but still a bucolic setting with killer sunset. The restaurant is known for its food and prices reflect that. Fantastic selection of food, all local fare and good wines list from around the PNW.
Saturday, Sept 9
Lake Quinault, Olympic National Forest, WA
Rain greeted our awakening. After a big breakfast, we piled in the minivan and headed to the Sol Duc Falls hike about a 40 minute drive from Lake Crescent. Debated the Marymere Falls hike right at Lake Crescent, but with sights on reaching the Hoh Rainforest, we punted. “Ducked” into the Sol Duc Lodge to see the hot springs, which are contained in a pool setting. Ick, but great for families. Lake Crescent is preferable for us sorts.
The Sol Duc Falls is a fab hike 1 mile through the forest which was our first taste of a temperate rainforest where beautiful meshes with eerie. Huge towering maples, firs, spruce, and hemlock are draped in moss with the entire forest floor covered in waist high ferns. The falls are a creek going through a narrow canyon that is covered in moss and the basalt rocks are smoothed to rival a Harry Moore sculpture. Def worth the trip.
Original plans were to head to the coast around Hwy 101 to see Shi Shi Beach, but the weather and tides rerouted us to the Hoh Rainforest on the southwest part of the park before parking it at Lake Quinault Lodge. The rainforest, famed for the filming of a Star Wars movie, is a wonder for the eyes and the rainy mist only added to the atmosphere. The 1 mile Hall of Mosses Loop at the visitor center is a highlight as the lush and massive vegetation is mesmerizing. From there, we went on to the Hoh Rainforest trail which can be as much as 18 miles and on into Mount Olympus is you want, but we did 3 miles in to Tom’s Creek and turned back for a wonderful 6 miler along the Hoh River in the depths of the rainforest.
It was about a 2 hr drive to Lake Quinault Lodge (with a quick turn-in to the world’s largest cedar….underwhelming and decaying, there also seems to be a number of the world’s largest some kind of tree in the park) on the edge of the park in the Olympic National Forest and right on the Lake. Built in two months in the 20’s, it is beautiful cedar shingled lodge with a huge green lawn spilling into the lake’s shore and lots of activities from horseshoes to paddle boards and kayaks and always a fire in the large fireplace. Dinner in the lodge was fine, but not on par with Lake Crescent. If you go, consider taking one of the rooms in the outer buildings. The lodge walls are clearly the same plywood from 1920 and you can hear every breath on every side.
Sunday, September 10
Lake Quinault, Olympic National Forest, WA
Bingo…we hedged our bets on the weather to save for the coast and the low tide and we were rewarded with a crystal blue and warm sunny day. On the road at 8:30 after a great breakfast Sammy at the LQ Mercantile across the street. We backtracked up 101 about 1.5 hours away to Second Beach. Nice little 1 mile trek to the beach which was low tide and dotted with tidal pools, sea stacks rock outcroppings and tents in the tree strewn shores. Fun to see a different terrain and different from the east coast beaches. The rock stacks were carpeted in periwinkles, mussels, colorful anemones and an occasional sea star (starfish.) Weathered tree trucks line the sandy shore with carved pieces for the perfect driftwood. Popped up to First beach/Rialto beach which is mostly home to one of the 8 Indian tribes reservations on the peninsula, and headed back to LQ. Note: we probably could have done the closer beaches of Number 1, 2 3 and 4 beaches near Ruby Beach and been just as happy.
Once back, the clan scattered to walk to LQ nature trail, kayak in the lake or chill with the Panthers. The adirondack chairs (LQ chairs?) and blue skies beckoned for a cold beer and toes in the grass.
Cleaned up for an evening drive on the Lake Quinault Rainforest Loop, which goes by the lake into the headwaters of the Quinault River and looping around through the Quinault Rainforest and opposite lake shore back to the lodge. The hope was to spot wildlife at dusk, which only produced a sighting of Sasquatch and the spooky fern and moss habitat. It was fab. Def a must. Note: this would be a great bike ride that is mostly flat with one challenging spot. Mainly a dirt road, it is best for mountain bike or hybrid bikes. Probably a 15 mile route.
Dinner was at The Salmon House just down the road. True to the area’s basic interior decor, it is known for salmon every way. If you are prone to smoked salmon, this is the way to go, as it is made in house, but baked, blackened, etc beckons as well. There are other seafood and land food for those wary of salmon. Martinis go particularly well with salmon.
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Monday, September 11
Paradise, Mt. Rainer National Park, WA
Cranked up the Sienna and spilt for Mt. Rainer National Park, 3.5 hours away and at 14,600 ft is the highest in the Cascades and 5th highest in the lower 48 states. Stopped in Asheford before entering the Park and had lunch at a great open air spot called Basecamp Bar and Grill which is a multipurpose spot for guides, retail and rooms esp for those interested in summiting Mt. Rainer (maybe not.) We arrived at Paradise Inn (6000 feet) and Visitor’s Center and immediately took off for the Skyline Trail which is about a 5 mile loop up the base of Mt. Rainer, at 7200 feet, though you can continue without a permit to Muir Base Camp at 9000 ft. We lucked out as it was a gorgeous and warm day and the Mtn was in its full glory, and this is not always the case as people have been there a week and never seen it.
This is a flat out fabulous hike. One of the best I have ever done. It is a 1200 ft rise (no doubt its the altitude, not being out of shape that is making you huff and puff!), but there were all sorts of sizes and ages doing the hike. Take the left side of the trail as it has the Mtn visible the whole time and the right side of the loop does not and your back would be to it when returning the other side. Breathtaking and varied in terrain. It took about 3 hours to hike.
The Paradise Inn is also a must as it is the first of the rustic, natural materials style that others such as Old Faithful and the Awhanee were fashioned after. It is a wonderful space of a large, open common space/lobby surrounded by a relatively private mezzanine. The dining room is basic, but the food is good. Note however, that the Inn is undergoing major renovations to secure the foundation and all the rooms in the wing with private baths are closed which is supposed to go on for the next 4 years. The rooms that we were in were with 2 singles in a minute road with a sink. The showers were down the hall and the bathrooms were down the hall and around the corner. Rooms were provided with robes and footies for germaphobes. The Inn and roads close in mid-October for the winter which gets up to 800 inches of snow in a season.
Dinner was in the decent enough dining room unless you want to drive steep, curvy canyon roads for 30 mins, which plenty of locals do, including our dinner guest, Park Ranger Nan Pace from Raleigh.
Tuesday, September 12
Mt. Rainer National Park, WA
Alas, original plans were to head to Sunrise in the Northeast area of the park, but forest fires had closed much of the northern parts of the Park. So, we regrouped and took the advice from Nan and went to the Stevens Canyon area. First stop was Box Canyon and then to Reflection Lake to take the Pinnacle Peak trail. A short, but steep trail up to a peak in the Tatoush Mtns, this was a trail flanked on all sides by wild blueberry bushes full of the fruit. Locals bring their containers to pick the allotted pint per week. With the brushes came lots of bear hair as well. The views at the top are outstanding with a full view of Mt. Rainer and opposite of Mt. Adams and also Hood in the far distance.
At the bottom, we took the Lakes Trail to the left, up to the High Lakes Trail and around for a fantastic vista over Louise Lake and Reflection Lake before descending back to the parking lot, in total about 3 miles.
Lunch was at the Box Canyon overlook as we drove onto the Grove of the Patriarchs, an easy 1.3 mile loop in an old forest growth with huge trees over 1000 years old. A must if possible.
Always overzealous, dust and whooped legs curbed usual enthusiasm to do the Silver Falls Trail and we zoomed up the Stevens Canyon Rd towards showers and martinis. Another dinner in the Dining Room and nightcaps in the mezzanine sadly toasting the Sellers last night.
Wednesday, September 13
Mt. St. Helen's and Mt Hood National Forest, Oregon
Hugged the Sellers so long and set Waze for Mt. St. Helens. After 2 hours, we stopped at the Mt. St. Helen’s Visitor Center, which while good, can be skipped if you are going to the David Johnson Memorial Observatory which is spectacular, 5 miles from the Mtn. Base. This is about 45 miles from the Visitor Center and beyond worth it.
The Observatory, so named for the Geologist who was at this location as they studied MSH and killed when it blew in the ensuing landslide, is excellent with displays, survivor stories and two excellent movies on the actual event and why and then on ecological results. All fantastic, mind-blowing and hard to comprehend. The before and after are amazing and 37 years later is still the stark, razed landscape, though with the return of the emerging wildlife and forest.
Options for hikes also start here, but we were out of time since we were driving on to Mt Hood and more forest fires on the Columbia River Gorge had closed the fastest route.
Arrived late after a three hr drive at the Timberline Lodge for dinner at the famed Cascade Dining Room. The Lodge is a treat for the eyes and the soul, both inside and out with 360 degree views of Mt Hood and the Cascades/Columbia River Gorge. Every part of the lodge was hand made and constructed by the WPA from 1935-1937. The story is fascinating and the results are beautiful. It is a basically a museum, but a very active place for all seasons as Roosevelt hoped. Craftsman taught out-of-work and unskilled workers crafts from weaving the curtains and rugs to making the furniture, carvings on the handrails, iron works for every hinge and decor in doors, handrails, beds, andirons, etc. Unknown artists were hired to do paintings, murals, mosaics, and wall carvings. Everything is stunning and a marvel to admire.
The Lodge is right at the base of Mt Hood and first and foremost is a ski lodge, but hikes including the Pacific Crest Trail and the Timberline Trail go right by it.
Dinner is in the cozy and small Cascade dining room which is known for its truly artesian and gourmet fare by a renowned chef. It did NOT disappoint. The wine list was pages and pages long and all the food in keeping with the theme of the hotel of combining the natural environment with artistic expression. There are several other cafes and bars around which were not open for the month of Sept, but a must to see for the art. The mezzanine Ram’s Club bar works very well for an open, yet intimate setting. This place is incredible.
Tip: Ate lunch in Toutle at Dale’s Grocery as advised by the Visitor Center since the Observatory has little in the food option category.
Thursday, September 14
Cannon Beach, OR
Uncontained wildfires all along the Columbia River Gorge had closed any access to the area, with I-84 closed in both directions and smoke permeating the air and sky. The air quality had gotten much worse from the previous day when we still had fantastic views. The same mountains were hazy today and the air was smoked smelling. We did an fairly short, but intense vertical hike midway up the mtn to 7000 feet and left, abandoning plans to even go to Hood River which would have been an ash-filled waste of time.
So off to Astoria before arriving at Cannon Beach. It was a solid 3.5 hr drive to Astoria from Mt Hood and Astoria itself is not the gem of the coastline. It does however have a great maritime museum which is worth going to. Very interesting to learn about the Columbia River bar, which is where the huge Columbia River meets the Pacific and has constantly shifting sand bars and wicked weather.
Next up: Cannon Beach which is a delightful gray shingled small beach town about 40 minutes from Astoria. The famed Haystack rock formation appears gargantuan as you round the curve up on the hillside towards The Ocean Lodge just outside of town was worrisome to read the rustic description in the guide book, but alas, that moron meant a rustic motif, not in actuality. It was quite lovely, with upscale everything, small kitchenette, fireplaces, big bathrooms and oceanfront balcony.
A stroll down the beach to see the rock formations, seagulls pulling dungeness crabs from the shallow waters and back in time to be ready for a gorgeous west coast sunset before heading in town for a most buzzy dinner with NC friends Tim Warmath and partner Ed.
Friday, September 15
Cannon Beach, Oregon
Based on Timmy and Ed’s recs, we left for Oswald State Park to do the Falcon Trail along the forested coastline to incredible shoreline vistas. Picnicked at another excellent State Park called Ecole State Park at Indian Beach climbing on the rock formations at low tide. The Pacific Coast trail goes through all of these parks if you are so inclined.
We hung up our hiking shoes and cruised Cannon Beach town, feeling a mix of Nantucket and Atlantic Beach. A pre-sunset barefoot walk on the beach revealed just exactly how numbingly cold the water really is.
Dinner that night was at The Stephanie Inn, happily right next door to us and to which both restaurant and inn are supposed to be all that. The food was outstanding, but we were underwhelmed with the property and happy with our digs.
Tip: Great grocery market called The Fresh Market, just down from the Hotel on Hemlock. Pick up a picnic there.
Saturday, September 16
Portland, Oregon
Timmy and Ed laid out our 1 day itinerary in Portland for us which is as follows:
Get settled at the Kimpton and then walk thru downtown to Powell’s and to the Pearl District ( be sure to walk the three squares: Jamison; Tanner Springs; the Fields) then have lunch on the roof of 10 Barrels Brewing or at Paragon. Also pop into the coffee shop called Barista - best coffee ever ( NW 13th Ave)
Then take an uber up to the Japanese Gardens; Hoyt Arboretum & Rose Gardens - beautiful gardens & views.
Depending on your timing, From there I would go to Chapman Elementary school to see the Swifts return to the smokestack - so beautiful and a real Portland scene ( take a bottle of wine and sit on the hillside watching the birds & sunset ) You need to be there from about 7:00 pm to 7:40 or so - the birds literally descend in (by the thousands) just after sunset.
Then stroll down to NW 23rd Ave and enjoy the many restaurants & shops. We liked the Fireside for drinks and don’t miss Salt & Straw for an ice cream. The lines are long but that is because everyone gets unlimited tastings and it is part of the fun.
Then hop on the Portland Streetcar ( the green line called the NS line) and it takes you right back to your hotel.
We actually adapted this to our needs and all in all Portland was a great change up. Walked a lot doing most of the above, but also tossed in a jaunt to Nordstrom’s and a excellent dinner at Q restaurant and of course an educational pit stop at the gluten free cannabis store. All were highlights for a great ending to an outstanding and varied trip!
Sunday, September 17
4:30 am alarm clock. Boo hiss.
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